Pai
Pai is a small little town, no mass tourism yet, and I hope that the long curved road will keep it that away. It's 4 hours by bus from Chiang Mai. Pai has a big variety of guesthouses starting with simple bamboo-huts at 50 Baht pp, but has also beautiful resorts in the direct surrounding, up to 700 Baht for a hut. The area has a lot to offer, this can be discovered by mountainbike or motorbike, or by foot. There are several good trekkingcompanies here, a lot offer that same 3 day-package that you get in Chiang Mai. But from here you don't have to sit in the car for so long on the first and last day.
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Visa requirements

- You can easily get a visa upon arrival at the airport, the cost is 30 US$.
- You don’t necessarily have to pay in $, Euro and pound are also accepted. However, if you ask for the price in Euro they will also say 30 Euro while at the time of writing, the value of the euro was 8% higher then the dollar. It is only when you object, that they will tell you tat they’ll give you a refund of 2 US$.
- If you’re thinking of going to Tibet or Bhutan, it used to be worth considering buying a double entry visa. This no longer exists and was changed into a "multiple entry visa" which costs 50 $ extra.
- Formalities to get the visa went very smoothly, there was no queue whatsoever (3/2003).

 

Money matters

Different sorts of money

Rupee: at the time of writing 1 Euro = 83 Rp and 1 US$ = 78 Rp
The Rupee is the official currency of Nepal. For an idea of the exchange rate, go to Oanda's currency converter. Be sure to have enough small notes with you, because often, especially in smaller places, people do not have enough change. 

Cash
In most places, they will readily accept any convertible currency, including Euro, if you happen not to have enough Rupees on you. Even while trekking in the Annapurna this was no problem, and in some places there are also moneychangers. It’s really useless to first change your Euros. at home into dollars, and then converting them here into Rupees. The rate for the Euro follows the official market.You can either change cash in the bank or at a moneychanger. Rates tend to be the same, but commissions may differ at bit. There’s a bank in the arrival hall at the airport. 
Traveler's cheques
Personally, I think the use of TC's is becoming more and more obsolete with ATM's becoming more and more popular. So personally, I don't use them too often anymore, but that's a personal choice. By far the best and most easily changed are American Express, although Thomas Cook, Citibank, and Visa are usually fairly easy to change in the major cities. To facilitate replacement in case of theft, keep a record of cheque numbers and the original bill of sale in a safe place. Also, before leaving, make sure you have the address of the place where you can report the theft and have a replacement. Even with proper records, replacement may not always be as quick as the companies promise. I read on the LP thorn tree that India is well known for the problem of not refunding stolen TC's. Then what's the point of having them?

In Nepal you will find that the exchange rate for travelers' cheques is slightly higher than for cash. At places in Thamel where they charge no commission, the rate is the same. But you have to add a usually lower exchange rate for the US dollar in your home country, you have to exchange twice (once from Euro to US $ and then from US$ to Sol, unless you're American), and thirdly you have to pay for them in advance, so you're giving American Express a free loan for a month or so. It's also known that some of these cheques never get cashed in anyway, so that's another profit for the bank issuing them. So all in all, it's not such a cheap method. 

ATM
This is of course a very handy system, which is spreading fast around the world. Most bankcards belong to the Maestro/Cirrus system nowadays, which allows you to withdraw money directly from your bank account. Exchange rates are usually good, but you have to pay a certain amount of money, which depends on your bank for each transaction. This is in the order of 2 or 3 Euros. Sometimes the local bank announces they also add some costs.
There are some ATM’s available in Katmandu f.i. in Thamel and in Pokhara. I don’t know about other places. 

Credit cards
Visa is the most accepted card, but the other 3 are also valid. In the smaller places, they will usually add a percentage of surcharge, usually 3,5%. In the more expensive places, this is usually included in the price.

Where to change

- Banks are the safest place to go, but it'll take more time. The bank at the airport gives reasonable exchange rates
- The money exchangers change money at comparable rates. The only problem is that they don’t give you a receipt, so you cannot reconvert your rupees into Euro when you leave home.

 

Transportation

By plane

1) There are numerous Nepalese companies. Apart from the ones I’ve mentioned below, there is still Shangrila, Skyline air, Mountain air and Flight care air. Some of them have a website.
Note that Nepalese fly much cheaper then foreigners. For instance the flight from KTM to Pokhara costs for them 1600 Rp, for us 5500 Rp.

Otherwise prices from the different companies are the same, except for Royal Nepal who are 15% cheaper.
Airport taxes are:
- 1100 Rp for international flights to non-SAARC countries
- 650 Rp for SAARC countries
- 165 Rp for domestic flights

2) When booking a flight, always take into account weather conditions. This means that it is best to book a flight early in the morning, as chances of having good weather are highest then. As soon as it starts raining, all smaller airports are shut down since they don’t have radars. This can sometimes take all day till the weather clears up again.

Also take into account that crashes do occur once every 2 years or so. This is usually during monsoon season when visibility is bad and planes fly into mountains.

Another important remark is to never count on a flight to catch your international flight out of KTM. Allow at the very least 1 day, but better even 2 or 3 days between your arrival in KTM and your return flight home.

Royal Nepal Airlines

I’ve spoken to both Nepalese and foreigners working there, and all of them say that this is the least reliable airline of all. Their prices are usually 15% lower and they have the biggest network. Their website is at www.royalnepal.com

Buddha Air
This looks like a reliable company. We flew with them once. The second time the flight was cancelled and they readily granted us a refund (although we had to do this through the travel agent where we bought it).

They have a decent website at www.buddhaair.com 

Cosmic air
I don’t know if this is a decent company. They flew us to Jomsom with a 2 hour delay. I’m not sure why, but there was a large group of Germans, so maybe they overbooked. They fly to many places and have a decent website at www.cosmicair.com 

Necon
I can’t comment on this company except that they have a website at www.neconair.com and they also have some Northern Indian destinations.

Ghorka
No comment.

BUS

You either have the option of taking the Nepalese buses or the tourist buses.

As for the Nepalese, they tend to be very cheap, but also rather slow as they have frequent stops.

As for the tourist buses like Greenline, they only do the touristic routes to KTM, Pokhara and Chitwan. They are usually faster, but also more expensive. Pokhara – KTM f.i. costs 8 to 10 $ depending on which comfort you’d like. Pokhara – Chitwan is 6 to 8 $ (3/2003). They all leave in the morning at 7 or 8 am.

Taxis

Taxis in KTM have meters, but it’s very rare they will put them on, so you’ll have to negotiate a price on beforehand. If they do agree to put on the meter, make sure they don’t put in on "EXTRA" as this is the night tariff.

You can also charter a taxi for longer distances. A trip from Pokhara to KTM will cost 4000 Rp (3/2003).
 
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