Introduction
Yangoon is a very crowded and noisy place. It still has a lot of
colonial buildings dating from the English colonization. It used to be
an important harbour.
Every
evening the streets of downtown Yangoon turn into one big supermarket.
Streetvendors sell almost everything. You can also have a cheap meal on
the streets.
Taxi from the airport
Taxi airport -> Sule Paya = 2 $ (I was proposed this inside the
airport after the change). Fare is for the taxi, therefore try to
group, no swindles: my driver waited until I saw the room of my hotel,
and was even ready to take me along to another if I did not like that
(6/2000).
Accommodation
In general the hotels in Yangoon are more expensive than in the rest of
the country. It is difficult to find a nice hotel in the 5 US$ pp
range.
We stayed first in the White Star hotel. We were charged 14 US$ for a windowless double room above the toilet. They have nicer rooms at 18 US$ a double.
Our second hotel was the Beautyland hotel 2,
at 33rd street nrs. 188-192. It's a very good and friendly hotel near
the railwaystation and the Bogyoke market. A double with bathroom and
AC (providing the electricity works) costs 12 US$ pp. including
breakfast. They also have a website. Another report says "keep asking to see rooms untill they show you one of the really good ones, 16 US$" (7/99).
If you want a more upscale hotel, then Kandawgyi Palace
is a good choice. It's the third best hotel in Yangoon (behind Pansea
and Strand). The restaurant is totally clad in teak even with a teak
shingle roof. Under all the teak is the usual concrete and brick
construction and inside is very modern. It overlooks the royal lake and
is in a nice setting. It is handy for town and has taxis passing all
the time. One of the best parts is in the old section of the hotel
where they have retained the old terrace which serves good Burmese and
average international food at lunchtime and well worth a visit - you
pay in kyat as well. It's well worth a stay if a $50-ish hotel is in
your budget. Last monsoon season they were letting rooms go for 35 US$.
If you aren't going at Christmas/New Year you can probably get as good
a rate by just walking in although they do a lot of French and Italian
package tours. Finally, insist on a lakeside room as the road on the
other side is fairly busy up to 10-11pm. (Diogenes, Thorn Tree 4/99).
Daddy' S Home:
single = 3 $, dble = 6 $. CH without window, AC small breakfast. Fine,
friendly, 1 of the hostesses speaks correctly French. Change: 330 K for
1 FEC (6/2000).
Restaurants
In the evening you can have a good meal on the street. The
streetvendors sell anything from meat to coconut pancakes. You can have
a good meal between 0,2 and 1 US$.
There are 3 very good Indian restaurants in the downtown area:
- Simla
- Nilar Briyane Shop: They are next to each other on Anawratha Street between 31st and 32nd street. You can have a vegetarian meal for 0,8 US$.
- New Delhi restaurant
is in the same street. It's equally good and clean. Their dosas are
excellent and dirt cheap, although misteriously listed as "toeshays" on
the menu (7/99). New Dehli 385 K (dish, rice, soda), OK. Danubyu Daw
Sawyi: shrimp curry = 1200 K, sheep curry = 250 K (6/2000).
There's also a good Burmese restaurant in the same street, but I forgot the name. Another good Thai & Burmese restaurant
was in 999 Khauk Swai in 34th street nr. 130b. You have to look for it
very carefully because it's a very small place. They serve good noodles
in any style, tofu and chicken for only 0,4 US$ a meal.
For breakfast, brunch, lunch or just a nice Chinese tea, you could go to the Black and White Bar.
It is beside the Central Hotel. It is a little run down, but still a
great place where you can meet nice people. they also serve good cold
Mandalay or Myanmar Beer.
If you need a good western
afternoon snack, then go to J'Donut. This is the place where all the
young people hang out. Donuts are cheap and good. You can find it on
Pansodan street near the post office.
If you are desperate for some western food, you can go to the small Aurora Inn Hotel
(Thirimingala street, Kamayut township). The manager is a French lady,
Sylvie de Guyon, and so are her meals. They are very good, but expect
to pay around 15 US$. You can also get a very nice room with antique
interior for around 30 US$. The place is frequented by Frenchmen.
For
a beer, go to the Golden Lion at the corner of Anawratha and Shwedagon
Pagoda Rd., access from the pedestrian overpass (7/99).
What to do
Shwedagon Pagoda
This is the most important paya in Myanmar. Every Burmese hopes to visit this place once in his life. It's a big place, and in the
center is the big bell shaped paya covered with 60 tons of gold and
more then 5000 diamonds. There's magic in the air. You need a full day
to visit the pagoda. If you're interested in Buddhism (sure you are ! )
it's best to hire a guide. The entrance to the pagoda is 5 US$ pp for
tourists (11/98). A guide will cost the same. Take a licensed guide for
the safety of the people. You can get there by foot from the downtown
area (30 min walk), otherwise take a taxi for about 1 US$ (6/2000).
City Walk
Yangoon is crowded but still has some nice sightseeing. You can visit the railway building or just shop around:
- Anawratha street
- Maha Bandoola street
- Bogyoke Aung San street
- etc...
It's
nice to see the markets on the streets. There are also a lot of old
English colonial buildings which are worth a visit. There are some
beautiful ones near the riverside. Here you can find the famous Strand
Hotel.
Bogyoke Market
A big market
with all separate shops. If you want to buy a Longyi, this is a good
place. There are also many tailors who can make your longyi to the
right side.
Going to the movies
This
is quite a unique experience. The movies are all Indian. You can find
movie theatres on Anawratha street between 33rd and 35th street.
Twante
This
is an interesting day trip from Yangoon. You have to take the ferry to
cross Yangoon river. Then you catch a local pick up truck to Twante
(watch out for jeep drivers asking high prices). The ferry and pick up
will cost you 0,1 US$. The village has a central market and is famous
for its pottery (too big to bring one home). The guide books say you
can take a boat from the ferry pier to Twante, but we couldn't find
this boat.
Letkhokkon Beach
This is
the nearest beach to Yangoon, but still 3 to 4 hours to get there. We
didn't do it and we heard it's nothing special. Inya Lake Nothing
special either. You find a small park for children, and at weekends you
find a lot of people here. Watch out, because if you just say Inya Lake
to your taxidriver, he will drop you at a luxury hotel at 2 km of the
park entrance. In this area is also the house of Aung San Suu Kyi
(University av. 54).
Getting away
To the East / Bago
The morning train to
Bago costs 2 US$ and takes 2 hours. Buy your tickets the day before in
the Myanmar Railway booking Office on Bogyoke Aung San street right
across 33rd street. From Bago you can get to Golden Rock (see Bago
chapter). You can also hire a taxi to Bago for 6 US$ (1.30 hours).
Going North / Mandalay
By plane
The trip costs between 100 and 150 US$
By train
For the night train you'll pay an incredible 45 US$ including a hard sleeper.
By bus
You
can take the night bus with Leo Express company (under the Aung San
stadion near upper Pansodan street, tel. 01-249512) to Mandalay. It
leaves at 5 pm and arrives at 8-9 am, price is only 2500 Kyat. The bus
stops 3 times during the night. Food is included in the ticket.
Mandalar Htun Express costs 1800 Kyat without food (8/2000)
The trip officially takes 14 hours, but 16 to 17 hours is sometimes more realistic.
UPDATES 2001
Transportation
· Biman Bangladesh Airlines (Bangkok -Yangoon, one-way) 2.900 Bath.
· Taxi airport > city : They ask 4$. Outside only 2.000 Kt !
- Leo Express Office is 15 min walking
- 5 minutes from Beautyland II hotel (other side of railwaystation)
Accommodation
·
Beautyland II hotel, only one block away from the famous and very
expensive Traders Hotel. Recommended ! 10$ for double room + shared
bathroom, 6 to 8$ for single with TV + bathroom. AC also possible. Also
good place to change dollars in kyatts (and try to negotiate a slightly
better rate than they say first).
Food
· Pizza Corner…
· Mandarin Restaurant (Sule Playa).
·
Restaurant of the super-de-luxe Traders Hotel (sandwiches 4$). Their
swimmingpool (5 USD for non-residents) is also fantastic ! To see
· Shwedagon Paya (****), entree 5 FEC / person. Ticket valid from noon till noon, not from 00.00 untill 24.00 hours !
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