Introduction
Mandalay is the second largest city after Yangoon. It doesn't look like
a city, more like a big village. There's no skyline, and there are
still some dirt roads.
The
city and its surroundings have a lot to offer to the traveller. It is
also the jump-off point for Bagan and Inle Lake or the North of the
country.
We stayed 4 days here and found many things to do. It is more Burmese than Yangoon and the people are very nice too.
Accommodation
The hotels in Mandalay are very cheap. When you go to a budget hotel,
you'll pay something between 2 and 5 US$ incl. breakfast.
a
brand new hotel (8/2000) is the Royal City Hotel (same owner as Royal
Guest House). They charge 18 $ for a double with bathroom and
breakfast. The place is very clean. They are at 27th street nr 130. Tel
95-2-31805, 28299.
We stayed in the ET hotel
(what's in a name). It is on 83rd st between 24th and 23rd street and
payed 10 US$ for a room with AC (of no use because no electricity),
bathroom and breakfast (7/99).
Update 6/2000: Hotel: E.T.:
double bargained to 4$ (reg price 6$), AC, ventil, bathroom, small
breakfast. OK. Keep backpack while traveling to Pyin U Lwin. Laundry at
ET: 350 K for 7 pieces (including 2 trousers)
Also very good, some reports say it's a bit better, is the Royal Guesthouse
on 82nd st. They charge 10, 14, 18 and 20 US$ for a clean room with AC,
bathroom and breakfast. Single rooms are 5, 8 or 12 $ (8/2000).
These
2 hotels are in the downtown area. From the busstation it is a 15 to 20
min. drive with rickshaws. Pay no more then 15 cents for this ride.
Restaurants
The place to be in town is Marie Min Vegetarian Restaurant.
The LP says " a godsend for travellers". This is true. Everything from
curries to yogurts to pancakes with chocolate is available. It's clean
and the manager (Richard) is a fantastic guy. He knows all the latest
news about travelling in the country. He has menus in 10 different
languages. The meals are also very cheap, around 30 cents.
Another nice place is the Aye-Myit-Tar on 81 street nr. 530. Portions are big, food is good (try curry) and prices are low (8/2000).
The BBB
has excellent European food. The steak with mushrooms (the N-steak), 2
US$, has become famous on the Asia trail. The coconut fish is even
better (7/99).
The honey Garden has one of the best Chinese kitchens in Myanmar, especially the tofu (7/99).
You can also find good and cheap food anywhere on the street.
Thai Yai restaurant on 84th south and 23rd street. It's good for cheap chicken, salad and noodles.
Lashio
Lay (very close to E.T., ask): very good and a lot of choice (meats but
also plenty of vegetables), you compose your plate at the entry, FYI
upstairs room has AC. About 550 K with a soda. (6/2000).
What to do ?
Mandalay Hill
The hill overlooking Mandalay city
is covered with payas and other religious buildings. From the bottom,
it's quite a hike to the top. You better take a pick-up to the paya on
top of the hill (25 cents) and then stroll down. On your way down, you
have plenty of places to stop for a rest or visit sacred places. The
entrance fee is 3 US$ for tourists (6/2000), however if you are not
checked a the bottom, one will ask you to pay only if you go on the
last terrace at the very top (thus stop BEFORE arcades with glass
mosaics). The area looks a bit like Disneyland with foodstalls, music,
vendors etc. A very nice atmosphere.
Tri-shaw from M. Hill -> ET (2 p.) 300 K
Mandalay Fort
It
was built in 1860. The king built immense walls (8 m high) around this
wooden palace. At each corner there's a watchtower. The walls from
tower to tower are 2 km long. Around the palace is a moat of 70 m wide
and 3 m deep. The whole area was under construction years ago, and the
government forced people to drag the moat. Entrance fee is 5 US$.
City tour
The
best way to see the city is renting a rickshaw for the day. You'll pay
around 3 US$ for 2 persons for the whole day. We went to:
- Buddha stone factory: In this street they make Buddha's in all sizes. Everything is handmade. They also export to China.
- Gold leave factory: they make gold leaves by hand here, amazing !
-
Marionettes factory: Mandalay is also famous for its marionettes. These
wooden puppets are very nicely made. Watch out for fake antique puppets
if you want to buy one.
Don't miss the Shwe In Bin teak monastery: great and... no entry fee (not so usual in Mandalay!)
Moustache
Brothers show, very friendly, you should go to discuss with the
brothers who is still free and to support the freedom of expression
(see the story in the LP), show will be hold only if there is at least
4/5 people, starts towards 8pm. Price depends on the number of people,
we were 7: 500 K p/p.( 6/2000).
Marionette theatre
We had no time, but
some people recommend a visit to this show. There's a theatre on 66th
st. between 26th and 27th. Check at your hotel for opening hours.
entrance 1000 K (6/2000).
U Bein's bridge
This
is an old teak bridge connecting the monastery with the Kyauktawgyi
Paya crossing Taungthaman lake. It's a nice and peaceful place. Take
bus nr. 8 from Mandalay (corner 84th and 29th street) and ask the
driver to stop at the bridge.
You can also hire a taxi to visit this bridge in combination Sagain bird's view, price is about 16 US$ (8/2000).
Minguin Paya
Also
recommended by others. this is a paya built in a big brick and split by
an earthquake. You can take a 45 min boattrip from Mandalay to
Minguin.
Other sights
Boat to Mingun:
200 K both ways, departure at 9am, back at 1pm. (landing pier at the
end of the 26th St.), Mingun entry : 3$ (2$ with a student card). It's
worth it only for this impressive ruin.
- bus to Amarapura: 30 K, then 15 K to Inwa.
- Inwa entry: 4$, boat: 5K one way, horsecart to visit the site: 500 K (bargained). Interest: medium.
Getting out
Pyin U Lwin
If you want to escape to a cooler
hill town, this is a nice place. It is a town with Nepalese and Indian
people. It's famous for its sweater knitting and for its fruits. You
get around with pony wagon. From Mandalay, you can take a pick up truck
from the central busstation.
From Pyin U Lwin, you can get
to Hsipaw and even to Lashio without a permit (always check first for
up to date info with MMT). Behind this point you need permits.
Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake)
We
took a minibus from the central busstation to Inle Lake. The company
was Honey Express, and the 6 hour trip costed 3 US$. On the way you
pass the hill station of Kalaw where you can get off. We heard you can
also do some great hikes there.
Bagan
By bus: from Mandalay busstation, around 2 US$.
By boat: very popular with travellers. the trip takes around 10 hours (fast boat) and costs 15 US$.
Update
6/2000: boat ticket to Bagan: 16$ (!!) for the " fast boat " (private
boat, see LP), departure at 6am, 4 stops (without possibility to get
off), lasted 9h30 (probably faster by the end of the rainy season).
Another traveller took the "slow boat" and the travel lasted twice the
time (fare is 11$ if I remind correctly). Nice trip (more than the bus
-), but less than Mawlamyaing to Hpa-An trip. Be prepared to see hotels
touts getting in at the last stop (even the one before for one of them
!) before Bagan.
Yangon
Leo Express costs 2500 Kyat pp including food
Mandalar Htun Express costs 1800 Kyat without food.
The trip officially takes 14 hours, but 16 to 17 hours is sometimes more realistic.
UPDATE 2001
Transport
·
Bus, 1.200 Kt/pp, departure at 7u of 9u, arrival at 15u of 17u. Also
possible with boat ...another 16 $/pp for the government !
Sleep
· Nylon-hotel, 6 $ to 15 $ is best value.
-
Shopping : Two or three blocks from the Nylon-hotel - in the direction
of the market - there is a shop with all kinds of things (baskets,
jewelry, masks, sometimes very strange things) from hilltribes like the
Naga's. The owner is a fat and ugly Chinese woman. Ask one of the boys
of the hotel to bring you there (but if you want to buy something,
return when you are alone !).
Food
· BBB, western menu, expensive but good.
·
If you want to see some kids of +/- 8 years old working 20 hours a day
for almost nothing : Go to the Nylon Ice Cream... Tell other travellers
not to go there, tell them why it is "so very cheap" there !
To see
· Mingun Paya (****), boattrip of 45 min, 500 Kt/pp, entrance 3 FEC/pp
If
you arrive at one of the little shops near the jetty and wait some time
- and if you are lucky that the ticketsalesman doesn't catch you - some
student might show you the temple and his village for free (and you can
give the 3 dollar to someone who needs it more than the government) !
·
U Pein Bridge (***), at sunset, which is around 17h. Go there before
16h. to cross the bridge, take a boat to return (500 kt / boat).
Warning : A lot of people (touts, risjaw and/or taxidrivers, ...) will
try to cheat you on your way from the citycentre to the lake ...to
visit silkfactories and other shops where they get their commission !
· Mandalay Marionetshow (***), 3 FEC/pp, but much more authentic in Inle Lake !
·
The Moustache Brothers (*****), daily show at +/- 17h. Entrance 1.000
Kt/pp If you haven't seen them, you haven't been in Birma !
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