Introduction
This city is on the way to the golden rock pagoda at Kyaiktiyo.
The city of Bago has more surprises then the guidebooks will tell you, so read this section.
When
we were there there was a serious grasshopper problem. Restaurants and
hotels were full of them. Like all other cities, there was sometimes no
electricity.
Accommodation
There aren't so many hotels in Bago. We stayed at the Emperor Hotel.
Unlike what the name suggests, it's a very basic place and not so
clean. It's overpriced at 5 US$ pp.
Update:
6/2000: Emperor doubles for 6$ (actually the price of a single), AC,
bathroom, refrigerator (!). OK but noisy: street + mosque. If you
arrive by bus in the middle of the night like me, the bus stops almost
in front, it will be closed so it is necessary to ring the bell. In
this case, the 1st night will not be charged. Also: not check out time,
but note that was in May, therefore in low season, thus...
- Laundry in Emperor: 6 pieces = 250 K.
-
people of the travel agency at ground floor are really very friendly,
they can help you for all, and give a lot of infos, and speak quite
good English. The person in charge is Maung Yee, a very tall Indian.
Trishaw
driver: ask for MANNI at the Emperor (or he will find you), 40 y.o.
Indian, very friendly, knows Bago very well, speaks correct English.
Highly recommended (6/2000).
Restaurant
We didn't eat in Bago (we ate at the golden rock).
The restaurant next to the Emperor Hotel serves breakfast and lunch, but no dinner.
Restaurant 555 (beside Emperor): 200 K fried noodles, draught beer (!) 75 K fried pork: ~400K
Restaurant Shwe It: spring rolls + beer = 500 K Near the Shemawdaw pagoda, there are some good noodle shops.
What to do ?
Bago
During our trip, several travellers told us
about a rickshaw driver called Manny. He's a great guide in Bago. Don't
worry to find him, he'll find you as there are very few tourists (he
awaits buses and trains). He offered us a citytrip with his rickshaw
visiting:
- The famous reclining Buddha: = 2$ + 50 K for photograph and 200 for video (!!) (6/2000).
- Four figures pagoda with beautiful Buddha's.
- Longyi workshop
-
He also goes to the fantastic Kha Khatwain Kyaung monastery. It's the
second largest monastery. There are around 1000 monks studying
Buddha's life. If you visit at lunchtime, you'll see how the food of
all these monks is prepared. You can take pictures and have lunch with
them, really great.
Manny charges 3 US$ for 2 for a whole day.
Golden Rock
We
heard there are not many hotels near the Golden Rock, and they are very
expensive, because a lot of tour groups end up here. So we decided to
take a car and return the same evening. We rented a driver next to our
hotel who charged 2 US$. The trip takes more then 2 hours. Golden Rock
is one of the most sacred places in Myanmar. A massive goldleafed
boulder balances on the edge of the cliff. The entrance fee is 6 US$
for the MMT.
From the foot of the mountain, you can take a
pick up, but some pilgrims do it by foot. If you do this, take plenty
of water, it'll take a whole day. It's also quite steep. If you go by
pick-up, they'll drop you near the top. It'll still take you 1 to 2
hours of climbing. At the top, it's like entering a theme park. There's
a very relaxed atmosphere, and the Rock is pretty amazing.
Try
to avoid visiting the rock on a full moon day, because then the rock is
visited by plenty of Burmese, which will cause you waiting many hours
because the path is very narrow (Peter Vos 9/99).
Getting out Bago
We went to Bago from Yangoon by train (2 US$ pp).
A taxi ride to Yangoon costs 6 US$ (we missed the train eventually).
Bus
Bago -> Mandalay: 2000 K, departure 6pm, duration = 13 h. Arrival at
the Highway Bus Terminal, free shuttles provided by the hotels
(6/2000).
UPDATES 2001
Transport
· Train from Yangoon, ordinairy class, 2$ / p.p., +/- 2u. Or bus...
Accomodation
· Hotel Emperor, 8$ for double.
Food
· Shwe Le Restaurant !
· Breakfast : Coffeeshop Hadaya Cafee, in front of Hotel Emperor.
To see
·
With Rikshawdrivers Tuntun en Kin (***) (you will find them in the
coffeshop) you can visit in one day - or two times 1/2 day - some
pagodes, a laying buddha, the monastry, the steamtrain, ... You pay
these very funny guys (Their hobby is to make sure you pay NO admission
for whatever) what you want !
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