Introduction This is a nice village to stop your journey along on the way to the NW region. The surrounding forest is good for hiking.
From LP to Pakmon (crossroad) it's a relatively good road, but then you come on road nr 1 which is in some places very bad.We were there at late monsoon, and some places where simply washed away.
Nong Khiaw is a good night stop for an alternative route to Phonsavan (Plane of Jars).
Accommodation
Don't expect much of hotels or guesthouses or any luxury. At the moment there are 5 guesthouses (10/99).
Philasouk guesthouse: right near the Songthaews stop, in front of the bridge. It's a 2-storey wooden building with a restaurant downstairs. Simple but clean rooms with mosquito nets + bunk beds cost 5000 Kipp pp, bathroom is downstairs. This is the only place where they sell cold beer.
The other 4 are also basic and have their mattresses on the floor. To get there, just walk down the main road, and you'll pass 3 others:
- Samphay 4000 Kipp pp
- Samnjot 2000 Kipp pp
- No name 3000 Kipp pp
The 4th one is just 10 minutes further along the main road near the school. It has no name and costs 5000 Kipp pp.
Restaurant There's only 1 restaurant. It's in the Philasouk guesthouse.They have a menu, but not everything on it is available. During our stay, you could only get noodle soup, sticky rice with egg and vegetables for 10.000 Kipp. They also have cold beer.
On the main road there are some foodstalls selling fruit and noodles.
Money exchange the Philasouk sometimes changes money, but there rate is bad, so make sure you have enough Kipp with you.
What to do It's a quiet off-road Hmong village with nice nature surroundings. So it's good to relax, or for smaller trekkings of 1 day to nearby Hmong villages.
A nice 1 day hike is a trip to Tham Pha Tok, a limestone cave where villagers lived during the Indochina wars, and to the nearby waterfall. Just walk out of the village, crossing the bridge. After about 5 to 7 km, you'll see on your right side the cave in the mountain. Leave the road, cross the river (watch out for leaches) and cross the rice field. You'll find a bamboo ladder leading into the caves (not good for people who are afraid of heights). DON'T FORGET YOUR TORCH.
To the waterfall, just continue the road for 4 km. Don't expect more then a good swim though.
If you need a guide for longer trekkings, ask for one at the Samnjot guesthouse.
Getting out By boat
It's possible to charter a boat to LP for around 50.000 Kipp pp. The price will of course vary depending on how many passengers there are.
You can also charter a boat to Phongsali for about 35.000 Kipp pp, also depending on the number of passengers.
We saw some people trying to find a boat to Vietnam, and they found one (don't know at which price). However, be aware that your Vietnam visa has to state the exact point of entry.
By bus
From Nong Khiaw, it's possible to go to the plain of Jars (Phonsavan). Ask the owner of the Philasouk guesthouse to put you in the right pick up truck. It'll be a rough ride taking 2 days from Nong Khiaw to Hua Muang, further to Muang Kham and Phonsavan.
In the morning, there are pick ups in front of the Philasouk guesthouse going to Pakbeng (and further to LP), Udomxai, Luang Nam Tha (10 hours, difficult road, 14.000 Kipp pp).
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