Getting there
- The Pelni ship "AWU" from Ende to Waingapu Rp. 21.500 one way economy class - i.e. sleeping on the floor, because all the benches are taken anyway. There was no first or second class tickets, because they are booked weeks in advance.
- I was told Merpati had flights again (2000), but it is important to know that you should only pay your tickets once you're in Sumba, so don't pay for a return ticket. reason is the Merpati employees are badly payed, and they only accept passengers giving them the money (info 2000). It is also possible to make reservations through a Belgian guy in Bali at Email:
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homepage: www.indonesiatravelplan.com.
- A car with driver costs about 170.000 Rp per day (2000).
Accommodation Waingapu
In Waingapu we stayed at the hotel "Sandalwood": 1. and 2. class are dreadful, but "VIP B"-rooms are o.k.and clean with a/c and two double beds for about Rp.60.000). Breakfast however consists of a banana and a jaffle with sugar. The owner is Chinese and does not speak any English, but has a huge collection of ikat in a storeroom for reasonable prices (for example a beautiful blue and white ikat-shawl with a skull tree motive Rp.75.000). Daniel, the "factotum" there, is very helpful and a nice guy. The restaurant was closed at the time.
To Rende From there we took the bus to Rende, a traditional village. Ikat are beautiful, but the prices are ridiculous. The people were friendly after we offered them betel that we had bought on the market in Waingapu before. It also helps if you bring something for the children (we brought them a frisbee and showed them how to play).
To Melolo We took the bemo to Melolo and walked on to Pau. There the villagers were not as friendly and although we offered betel and played with the children they could not understand that we did not want to buy their ikat. The huge graves in both villages are definitely worth seeing.
To Waikabubak Bus from Waingapu to Waikabubak Rp. 6.500 one way - typical public bus with plastic stool in the middle which is sold for full price and about 20 people getting on on the way, so try to book a proper seat in advance and NOT in the last row. Although there is more room for your legs this is no use, when you have somebody sitting in your lap the whole 4 hours. However, there is a stop after 2 hours so you can stretch them. Wrap the things that are not supposed to get wet in plastic bags in case it rains, because everything is stored on the roof.
Accommodation
In Waikabubak we stayed in the hotel Manandang - very sophisticated and a lot of personnel for Rp.50.000 for a big room 2. class with fan and breakfast. Very good if not cheap food in the restaurant.
Have a look in the "Art and Antiques Shop", Jln.A.Yani 27, interesting things and very nice people, but take your time for bargaining! We came as customers and left as friends.
On the main road there is a Merpati Office above a shop, where you can also buy tickets. The shop belongs to a Chinese who owns horses that you can rent.
We rented a small bike (looks like a Vespa) in Waikabubak at the "Sumba Indah"-shop, Tel. 21813 (Balinese family, very friendly and bikes are o.k) for Rp. 30.000 per day. When we had a flat tire they came with us and repaired it quickly.
The dates and places of the Pasola-festival this year:
- In Lamboya, Kodi Besar and Gaura it is already finished.
- In Wanokaka :Mar. 25-26
- In Kodi Bangedo :Mar. 29-30
- It is said to be spectacular: two groups of riders charging at each other, nowadays with blunted spears, but still without shields, so that it is quite bloody (otherwise the harvest will be no good).
We had the impression that people in West Sumba are all together more open and friendly as in the East.
To Rua - We drove to Rua - beautiful beach with perfectly white sand, no tourists at all, only a few fishermen. The only "blemish" is a big concrete jetty that has been built recently - nobody knows why or what for. Then we went on to Pantai Marosi. This is the most spectacular beach I have seen for a long time - and I have seen a few. But don't lay down for long, because there are sandflies. The Sumba Reef Lodge is closed with a barrier and a guard that you cannot pass. The bungalow site is enormous, the buildings are obviously planned for hundreds of guests, most of the material is antique and it is situated on a very beautiful beach, but it is not finished yet. The owners have been building for the last nine (!) years and now and then they run out of money and when they start building again, parts have collapsed again. "Projek gila" it is called - crazy project. I would call it megalomania.
- You will notice that the Sumbanese are much taller in average than other Indonesians. It is said that the ancestors were Sasak-people and that is why.
- Flight from Waingapu to Bima and on to Labuan Bajo Rp. 429.600 - the flights do connect - airport tax Rp. 5.500 in Waingapu. |
