Visa/Crossing the border A visa is readily given at the border. There are however 2 important remarks:
- Make sure your passport is valid for more then 6 months, because I read several reports of people being sent back to Singapore, even in Denpasar f.i., because their passport expired within 6 months.
- The visa is valid for 2 months. If you overstay your visa, you can be pretty sure to get fined. Don't think you can get away with it, even at remote borders in Kalimantan. Price for overstaying your visa is 25.000 RP per day (12/98).
The Indonesians can be a bit difficult if you don't have an onward ticket. Reports vary a bit on this subject, but you can have some problems and you might have to pay a bribe.
It's not that easy to go for a "visa run" in Indonesia, but here are some options (4/99):
- You could take a plane from Jakarta to Singapore for about 100 US$ return trip, or cheaper from Medan for 60 US$ return trip
- From Manado (Sulawesi) you could hop on a cargo boat to the Philippines if you have a lot of time (55 US$), or else there are 2 planes a week.
Money matters When I was in Indonesia in May 1998, the Rp was 10.500 to the dollar, and because of the frequent devaluations, it was far better to pay with credit cards, especially outside Bali and Java. The example underneath shows you what the rates for the different options where in Manado, Sulawesi on 12/5/98.
| Type of money | Rate for 1 US$ | | Cash | 7.700 Rp | | Traveller cheques | 8.800 Rp | | Cash advance with VISA | 10.450 Rp |
Nowadays however, the advantage of paying with a credit card is less clear, especially in Bali and Java where you can also get good rates for your cash. Still, in less touristic places, a credit card will be very useful giving you better rates, even when getting a cash advance. VISA is readily accepted, American Express a bit less.
Here are some general remarks
- Make sure you have enough Rupiahs with you before you go to the less touristic places like Flores or other islands of Nusa Tenggara. Rates here are considerably lower (between 4.000 and 7.500 Rp) and exchange boots are more difficult to find. Also TC's will usually not be accepted. Paying with credit card, even for airline tickets is often impossible.
- VISA charges 3,5% costs for a cash advance, and the bank itself will charge you 10.000 to 25.000 Rp, but even then it's a far better option then changing cash in the more remote areas. In the bank you can get up to 3.000.000 Rp, at the ATM machines you'll get a maximum of 400.000 (10/98).
- Notes with large denominations (e.g. 100 US$) usually give you a slightly better rate. Also make sure you have new notes as old notes will often be refused.
- In most banks there is no commission on changing TC's. The table above shows you can get more for TC's in Manado (Sulawesi), but exactly the opposite is true for Bali, there you will get more for cash.
- Be extremely careful while changing money at the moneychangers in Kuta. Those who have the best rates will very often try to rip you off, I had several reports about this!! The usual trick is to count the money first, and one way or another they manage to slip some of the money under the table, so always count again before putting the money in your purse. Another trick is to simply count wrong, f.i. if you need to get 1.200.000 Rp for your 100 US$, they will count 1.020.000 Rp. Another trick is to switch notes and give you 1.000 Rp notes instead of 10.000 Rp.
- In smaller places (like Bangsal in Lombok and Labuan Bajo in Flores) you can haggle a bit for a better rate (but that's because they already give you a lousy rate anyway).
Currency converter
If you want to know how much the Rupiah is worth today, click here to go to a currency converter.
Transportation Flights within Indonesia
Companies
Since the economical crisis, things have changed a bit in the Indonesian air. There are 5 different companies:
- Garuda is still the most reliable, but they also experience much trouble. A lot of their planes start from Jakarta, so if there's trouble there, they might not take off, and thus there are no flights on other islands either. This happened during the riots of May 1998. They have a website at www.garuda-indonesia.com. However, with the economic crisis, the site tends to be more often off the web then on the web these days. You won't find prices on the site, and it's not really up to date (f.i. the airport tax they mention is at least 1 year outdated).
- Merpati: they are nowadays reknown for cancelling a lot of their flights, f.i. if there are not enough passengers. In Sulawesi the Ujung Pandang-Rantepao is hopeless, and the Manado-Gorontalo-Palu also gets cancelled frequently. The UP-Maumere flight proved to be very reliable for us. They have a website at www.merpati.co.id.
- Sempati: this company was owned by one of Suharto's sons, and they stopped all services since July 1998.
- Bouraq: they surprised me during my last trip. They proved pretty reliable from Manado to UP with good service too.
- Mandala: appears to be more reliable for flights from Mollucca to Sulawesi then Merpati.
- Air Mark: This is a new company having 2 flights a day between Denpasar and Mataram with discounted prices on this flight. You can contact them through Sjaful Rabindra, Sales and marketing manager, AIR MARK, Jl. Legian Kaja N, 486, Kuta 80361, Bali, Tel 62-(0) 361-757008.
Prices
- In 1998 flights have become cheaper for foreigners. Although prices have been gradually increased, f.i. with 37% on 7/5/98 due to increase of fuel prices, the Rupiah has devaluated by 75%, so this compensates largely for the increase. there was another 40% increase on 1/9/98, but a scheduled increase on 1/12/98 did not go through because of the strengthened Roupiah. However, since the strengthening of the Roupiah, prices are now more or less what they were before the crisis in US$.
- Due to stepped up competition, prices have become pretty cheap again in 2002. There is an excellent Indonesian site where you can do a search on all flights with all companies, and they'll give you current prices. Have a look at http://www.travelindo.com/search/flight/.
- It's not advisable to book flights ahead from home since you will pay much more, and flights get cancelled frequently, unless of course you arrive in Jakarta and want to have the next available flight.
Discounts
- You can pay a bit less for your ticket if you book it through a travelagent. The disadvantage is however that when your flight gets cancelled, you will have a lot of problems getting a refund at the airport, since they will invariably tell you to go back to the agent.
- If you have a student card, always try to get a discount. Merpati sometimes can give you a discount of about 25%, although this can depend on a lot of factors like whether you speak some Indonesian, whether they like your face, whether it's raining or not etc... In theory, only domestic students can get the discount.
- If you flew in on the international flight with Garuda, keep your ticket and try to get a 50% discount on Garuda's domestic flights.
- It's not advisable to book flights ahead from home since you will pay much more, and flights get cancelled frequently.
Indonesia pass
There is an "Indonesia-pass" by Garuda. This used to be bad value for money, because most flights were costing less then 100 US$ anyway. Since the price rise in september and the coming price rise in March '99 however, it might be a good idea for long trips like Jakarta-Jayapura or Jakarta-Manado. However, keep in mind that there are 3 conditions you need to fulfill:
- Book your international flight with Garuda
- Book the time of your first trip on beforehand
- Book your second and third trip on beforehand, although you are free to choose the time schedule.
- So for most travellers, it's still bad value, and I think it's also better to avoid Garuda on your international flight.
The Garuda airpass has now become obsolete with the newly proposed Asean Airpass I guess since this one is a bit cheaper and entitles you to have international flights.
General remarks
Departure tax for international flights is 50.000 Rp nowadays (9/98).
Go to the "Airsafe" site to have a look at the safety records of these companies (but make sure you have some tranquillizers at hand) http://www.airsafe.com
Pelni ships
Apart from the classical ferries between different islands, you can also take a Pelni ship for the longer hauls. In some cases like Flores f.i., it could save you a long and uncomfortable bustrip. The main draw back is that you need to do some serious planning since most ships only come by once every 2 weeks.
For schedules, have a look at the www.pelni.com site.
Bus
Public transportation
On long distances you can take comfortable AC buses, Sometimes you can take extremely comfortable night buses, f.i. from Rantepao to UP, but also on several destinations in Java.
On shorter distances, you often have to take slower and uncomfortable buses. They stop everywhere, so the average speed is 40 km/hour! The advantage is that they leave so often you rarely have to wait. In Nusa Tenggara, you will only find these buses, not the comfortable AC buses.
These buses are so cheap it's no use to mention any prices here.
Tourist transportation
On the main tourist trails you will find well organised tourist transportation. One word of caution however: these trips are often not more comfortable than public transport and only slightly faster (about 55 km/hour). The only advantage is that these tickets are all inclusive (f.i. with ferry) and that they bring you to your destination without changing buses.
Here is a list of examples with prices (5/97). These prices are not reliable for the moment, please update me on this (2/99).
| Trip | Price | | Pangandaran-Yogya | 8 US$ including boat | | Yogya-Bromo-Bali | 25 US$ including poor hotelaccommodation | | Kuta-Lombok-Gili | 14,5 US$ including ferry |
Train
We only took a train once from Jakarta to Bandung. There were 3 classes available. The train is quite comfortable, but also more expensive. We paid 6,25 US$ in 2nd class (5/97).
From other travellers we heard that night trains are not a good option: they are overcrowded, sometimes you even don't have a seat and there is no sleeping class.
Taxi
We had very good experiences with taxi, as long as they are official taxis with the meter running.
All the airports have official taxi boots which saves you from being ripped off by the driver. Refuse any unofficial offers, they will always be more expensive.
If you've already chosen your hotel, phone them because they might pick you up for free.
Here are some airports with official fares:
- Jakarta: the official taxi has to pass a gate were someone speaking English asks you where you want to go and translates this to the driver. He also gives you a paper with the number of the taxi and an address in case you have any complaints. The fare will be about 60.000 Rp plus the fare for the tollway 10.000 Rp (this is added to the amount on the meter) (latest info from the updates of LP (7/98)).
- Mataram: you can take a taxi to Senggigi (10.000 Rp) or Bangsal (22.000 Rp)(5/97).
- Denpasar: about 8.000 Rp to the center of Kuta (5/97)
- Ujung Pandang: 17.000 Rp (5/98), but you can also phone your hotel and ask for a free pick-up.
- Maumere airport is at only 2 km from the centre of town, a taxi should cost not more than 5.000 Rp (5/98).
Becak
It's a nice experience, but as a foreigner it's always difficult to estimate what the fare for a ride should be. Around 2000 Rp should be a reasonable price (5/97).
Beware of drivers who will take you around town for only 1000 Rp, unless you want to be dragged around from one shop into another where they have there commissions.
Also in Pangandaran, it is common practice that the becak driver gets a huge commission of the hotel owner (something like 20.000 Rp !!).
Renting a motorbike
Renting a motorbike is possible almost everywhere we went. Prices are cheap (10.000 Rp a day), but be careful since there's no insurance coverage.
In Yogya you should reserve one day ahead, since they are easily sold out.
On Dieng plateau, expect to pay 20.000 Rp for 8 hours (5/97).Make sure you have a driver's licence because in Bali they will check it and you will get a fine of 30.000 Rp.
Renting a car
In Bali you could also rent a car, I wouldn't recommend it in Java since traffic is quite heavy there.
Prices are reasonable:
- Suzuki Jeep: 60.000 RP including insurance
- Kiang Jeep: 80.000 Rp
In Sulawesi it is customary to rent a car with driver. In Rantepao this will cost about 80.000 Rp per day, in Manado expect to pay more (up to 200.000 Rp per day, but this includes longer distances like the Tangkoko reserve).
You can also rent a car without driver for longer periods. There's an agency in Bali which can transport cars to other destinations like Sulawesi. Their head office is in Sanur, Bali Car Rental, Jl. By-Pass Ngurah Rai, 17 Sanur, Tel 0361/288550 or 288359, Fax 0361/288778.
- Prices range from 26 US$ to 50 US$ per day for a minibus.
- You can get reductions if you rent for longer periods: 10% from 4-6 days, 15% from 7-9 days, 20% from 10-13 days, 22% from 14-20 days, 25% from 21 days or more.
- Add 10 % for insurance.
- Also add a fee for dropping and picking up the car from Bali to Sulawesi.
- F.i. Daihatsu Taft 4WD for 27 days UP-Manado costed 1300 US$. Prices were valid in 8/98.
- Warning: this company has some trouble now because the couple who runs it is in a divorce, and maintenance is not anymore what it should be (2/99).
Cybercafés and other internet facilities
In the tourist areas, you will have no problems finding cybercafés offering cheap access to the web.
However, in the more remote areas like in Sulawesi, Kalimantan or Irian Jaya this might be more difficult. Luckily, the Indonesians are now building a web of post-offices with internet connection. There used to be a website with a list of these post-offices, but I don't find it anymore. |
